You’re familiar with FU Penguin? In which blogger Matthew Gasteier tells cute animals what’s what?
I will now do the same with Herve Mons Laguiole, a cheese I encountered in Napa.
The scene: Route 129, heading north through lush, sweet-smelling vineyards, passing under a canopy of changing leaves. We turn off just south of the too-gorgeous-and-tasteful-to-be-twee-but-it-would-be-twee-if-it-were-any-less-gorgeous-and-tasteful main street of St. Helena, into the Dean & Deluca parking lot, where we’ve set our sights on lunch. Or at least snacks. (John’s vegan status will soon stymie this attempt, but stay with me.)
We enter the store. To the right, the cheese counter, chock-a-block with wedges of every imaginable provenance and an employee dressed in a crisp white chef’s coat. To the left: the pastry counter, with tophat cupcakes so huge that their gravitational pull overwhelms us, and we veer immediately pastry-ward, cheese ignored. Before I can properly focus on the confections, I am chanting, “WANT! WANT! WANT” at decibels loud enough to turn heads. People look at us and smile. We are popular.
It takes some time to a) make our pastry selections, and b) determine that there aren’t appropriate lunchables for John. Our hunger stoked and beginning to gnaw, we turn toward the exit. On the way out, I sample a few cheeses that have been micro-cubed and placed into baskets at paw-grabbing height. Then I continue on my way.
But no.
I must stop.
Something is happening in my mouth.
Something totally, radically, life-changingly insane.
Something so salty-creamy-fatty in such perfect proportions, so melty and buttery and rich and cheddary but way, waaaaay beyond the cheddar I have known, with all kinds of killingly consumate bready and earthy and tangy notes, that I stop dead in my tracks.
And cry.
Yes, reader. This cheese made me cry.
It opened up my chest and spread throughout my body like love. Like something so immensely alive, so full of cosmic life-force, that I melted into a conduit for harmony and light.
It was a cheese with great wisdom and depth. A cheese that knew something—knew many, many things—that I didn’t know. Teach me, cheese, I wanted to say. Teach me everything.
So. Fuck you, Herve Mons Laguiole. You will not make me quit my job and move to France just so I can learn how you are made. I refuse to abandon my happy life to personally meet, stroke, and kiss each and every French Simmental or Aubrac cow (above 800m altitude), between May and October, when their milk is collected for laguiole. I cannot be forced to track down the fetchingly attractive Herve Mons (second from left) and smother him with passionate kisses, no matter how fervidly you impel me to do so. And I will most definitely not continue to purchase you, at $34/lb., and consume you with crusty cranberry-and-currant bread, as I did every day of our Thanksgiving vacation.
Take that, Herve Mons Laguiole. You deserve it.