Archive for the ‘Food’ Category

Creepy Movie Week

Sunday, July 18th, 2010

Last week was, indubitably, creepy movie week. After Winter’s Bone (gah, gah, and more gah) we saw Cyrus, which I wish I’d known in advance was the Duplass brothers, since that would have given me at least a minimal heads up. (Back when I was doing that sort of thing for shekels, I reviewed their first movie.)

Cyrus! Very creepy! My love for Jonah Hill has been compromised by the skin-crawling creepiness of the character he plays!

And then, as if that weren’t enough creep for one week, I Netflixed Match Point, even though I am in general against everything Woody Allen has done since the late ’80s. And, wouldn’t you know it, more creepity creep!

I don’t understand where Allen gets his ideas about sexuality (the only word is “creepy”), and I also don’t understand how we’re supposed to believe that a basically regular person, albeit it overly serious and calculating, could plan and execute a double murder.

Also, can Scarlett Johansson act? I used to think so, but she’s pretty awkward in this movie. Maybe she does bored and sultry but nothing else. Her attempts at hysteria were not ringing true for me.

In other news (most excellent), a favorite Santa Cruz restaurant of ours just opened in Berkeley. Saturn Cafe! Space-age vegetarian diner! We welcome and love you. We will be seeing you frequently.

And, hey: John noticed that downtown Berkeley now has a Venus, a Saturn, and a Jupiter. Pretty fitting, no? Berkeley = alien-friendly.

Dessert of Appetizer

Tuesday, June 15th, 2010

As some of you may know, I have a predilection (some might say a gift) for prandial innovation.

It began when I was a child, and I asked my mother for dessert of breakfast.

“There is no dessert after breakfast,” she would say.

But I begged to differ. Who wouldn’t want to follow a bowl of cereal with a nibble of chocolate or a couple of quarts of ice cream?

As a young adult, I invented Dessert of Snack, which truly changed my life. And in my early 30s, I displayed my true genius for invention by coming up with Dessert of Dessert of Snack. (Not recommended for the inexperienced palate.)

Well, my friends, I have done it again. Last night after eating merely a single fresh spring roll, I decided that it was time for dessert. And in a flash of thinking unconstrained by convention, a new course was born: Dessert of Appetizer.

Live it, love it, eat it.

You know I will.

Gather/Exit

Monday, May 24th, 2010

It’s a quack-a-doodle week here at Lonesome Quill, what with having to work for pay and everything, so here’s the weekend news in brief:

1) First time at Gather, and the arugula was the celebrity. We could smell its spiky freshness wafting over from the next table. Avec acidic whiff of vinaigrette!

I was fond of my sausage and bean-hominy ragout, which arrived in a scorching iron skillet* and was deeply belly-pleasing. In addition to smokey, hearty, earthy flavors, my friend Judy (Hi, Judy!) tasted something curryish in it. Coriander?

And while I have yet to meet an aioli I don’t like, the lemony one I had with my roasted taters and itsy-bitsy grass-stalk-sized arugula (infant arugula?)  was scrumptiously unctuous. Heh.

Finally, the kale salad. The dressing was a little too citrus-only for me (a wee bit of maple syrup would have worked wonders), but the kale was done perfectly, as were the sweet nuggets of carrot, and mm-mm grated Fiscalini cheese.

The only problem was the waitress. Inattentive and unfriendly. Nose crinkle. And:

*They should have warned me. I burned my hand.

2) John and I saw Exit through the Gift Shop, “the world’s first street art disaster movie.” Hilarious and possibly unsettling, if you don’t have a sense of humor about the sticky relationship between art and commerce, which—surprise!—sometimes I don’t!

I’ve been hearing good things about Banksy for a long time. Now I love him.

3) Harvey Milk Day party! In the car on the way there:

M: I wonder if they’ll have Twinkies.

J: Nah. Too dark.

On the table when we walk in: honking mound of Twinkies.

J: Good one, Sweetie.

M: I’m smart sometimes.

J: Lots of the time.

M: All the time.

Millennium vs. Greens: No Contest

Tuesday, April 13th, 2010

John’s moms were in SF for the weekend, at a Philosophy of Ed conference, so we joined them for dinner on Saturday and Sunday. First up: Millennium. Second: Greens.

It’s probably not a fair comparison, because the restaurants are doing different things. Millennium may be vegan and Greens vegetarian, but Millennium is much more about the layering of rich, hearty, and pungent flavors with beautifully varying textures, whereas Greens has a much more Chez Panisse-y take on featuring uber-fresh local vegetables in mostly unadorned ways.

Still. As per usual, Millennium shone with some truly breathtaking dishes, whereas nothing I tried at Greens inspired me, except for the raspberry lemonade. And, you know. Lemonade.

Memorable at Millennium: the carrot cake, which featured fluffy patties of cake sandwiched around a creamy center, accompanied by fresh and bright carrot sorbet, a carrot-and-fig compote (divine), and a long drip of caramel down the rectangular plate. John had a tofu curry with scrumptiously flowery accents, less coconut than coconut-jasmine. And I had a juice-mint spritzer that was all the more fantastic for featuring Navarro gewurtztraminer, which you can’t rightly call grape juice, although that’s what it is.

Memorable at Greens: the fact that I paid $23 for an enchilada entree comprising a) mediocre enchiladas with bland flavors b) bare butter beans, and c) a spoonful of acidic slaw. Ew. I am also annoyed that the leek-garlic-manchego potato cakes tasted like masa.

Sigh. I hate to trash Greens. But we can have some more flavor, please?

Gregoire Fail

Friday, April 9th, 2010

Until Wednesday, I’d never had a disappointing meal at Gregoire. In fact, in the consummate perfection of their potato puffs—mashed potatoes breaded, rolled into mouth-poppable morsels the size of doughnut holes, and deep-fried—they’ve been glowingly consistent.

But, in the immortal words of En Vogue, not this time.

On Wednesday, when my friend Vicky and I went to get our quarterly share of salty, buttery, creamy, deep-fried carbohydrate, we were let down. Because instead of the usual aioli, which is creamy, yes, but—critically—acidic and tangy with vinegar, we were given a different dipping sauce entirely, this one of the creamy-parmesan-pesto variety.

No good. It doesn’t work to dip fried fat into more fat, without any acid to cut the adiposity. It’s too one-noted.

We also had the salad, which is usually a fluffy mess of deliciously fresh baby lettuces and crunchy croutons topped with a creamy vinaigrette. Again, no! There was only one type of lettuce—butter—and the dressing was bland and mustardy.

What happened, Gregoire? Out of vinegar?

In other food fails, we have Trader Joe’s cucumber wontons. Yeah, you read that right. Cucumber. I thought I’d give them a try. Is it ever okay to cook cucumber? Discuss.

Kessler on Overeating

Monday, April 5th, 2010

As promised, I’m here with a review of David Kessler’s The End of Overeating [sic---i.e., this book ain't gonna end it].

Kessler’s theory, presented with plenty of studies* to back it up, is that sugar, fat, and salt are addictive substances, particularly when grouped together. Because they’re addictive, they cause many people to eat beyond satiety, and then to become trapped in a conditioned cycle of overeating.

*I’m in no position to judge the validity of the science, of course. Kessler’s the former head of the FDA and is respected for his role in challenging the tobacco industry. I don’t know how deeply he looked into the studies he cites.

Kessler is particularly good on the nefarious role that food companies, chain restaurants, and fast food restaurants play in creating “hyper-palatable” food, products and dishes comprising layers of sugar, salt, and fat in combination, over which many Americans have become powerless.

So far, so good. I’ve found all three of those substances to be mood-altering and potentially (or actually) addictive—as refined sugar is my drug of choice, I’ve gone off it before and am considering going off it again—and Kessler’s research is convincing. The problem with TEoO is everything that comes later. Allow me to elaborate:

Kessler goes a long way to portray sugar, fat, and salt as addictive substances, comparing them to drugs and alcohol and pointing toward programs like AA and NA as viable means of recovery. Why, then, no mention of OA (Overeaters Anonymous)? It’s a glaring elision. There must be a reason, but . . . what?

Predictably, based on his essential beliefs about overeating, Kessler recommends removing sugar, salt, and fat from the diet.* Alongside this (drastic) change in behavior, he recommends classic Cognitive Behavioral Therapy techniques like demonizing the hyper-palatable foods (and the companies who make them), plus placing yourself in a community of people who will do the same.

*Astonishingly, he says that the addicted overeater can add them back in eventually, in small doses. Um . . . isn’t the point of the addiction model that you can’t have just one?

Some problems here.

First, Kessler seems to feel that shaming is a worthy technique—i.e., it’s good to feel ashamed of eating hyper-palatable food, because then you’ll eat less of it. Even without the benefit of science, I think most of us know that shame doesn’t work. After all, who is shamed in our culture more than fat people? And yet obesity, as we hear pretty much daily, is on the rise. And even if shame were to work, I’d hardly recommend it as a tool for healthy living.

Second, CBT may be helpful in the short term, but chances are, not many people will be able to drastically change their diets over the long haul, simply by trying to “re-wire” their neural networks to believe that hyper-palatable food is bad. I mean, doesn’t everyone already try to do that? And end up eating that kind of food anyway? Would you tell an alcoholic that she could stop drinking simply by convincing herself that drinking is bad?

In other words, Kessler promises us a radical new way of understanding overeating, and then he gives us classic dieting techniques that have failed for so many people for so long.

Kessler’s attachment to the concept of “control” is telling, betraying a failure to understand addiction. One of the cornerstones of 12-step programs is relinquishing control, using surrender as a spiritual tool to live from a place of groundedness and reality instead of distraction and addiction. What Kessler is advising overeaters to do is what 12-steppers might call “white-knuckling it,” clamping down on behavior (and therefore feelings, although he can’t see that) with rules designed to override the mind’s and body’s impulses. Which, long-term, sounds to me like a recipe for a compensatory binge.

David Kessler, meet Geneen Roth. Roth has written a slew of books about compulsive overeating, and what she understands is that there’s a relationship between feelings and eating. She also understands that most people who overeat are out of touch with their internal satiety mechanism. In other words, our bodies tell us when we’re hungry and when we’re full. If we eat only when we’re hungry and stop when we’re full, we’re in good shape, giving our bodies enough and not too much.

But many people eat because food’s in front of them, or it’s time to eat, or they’re feeling upset, or, yes, because they’re addicted to certain foods. (Alternatively, others don’t eat when they’re hungry—they’re dieting, or distracted—and mess up their relationship with satiety that way.) Roth has a great program for getting back in touch with your internal society mechanism. She’s interested in a peaceful relationship with food—not a teeth-gritting horror show where food is the enemy and every meal is a struggle.

I wish Kessler had read a little Roth before he wrote his book. In fact, I wish most Western medical practitioners, who seem to believe that behavior can be modified without deep emotional work despite overwhelming evidence to the contrary, would look beyond CBT and start learning about somatic means of healing.

Also missing from Kessler’s book: compassion for people of all sizes, plus a recognition that bodies come in different shapes.

Sigh.

Favorite Cookie

Thursday, January 21st, 2010

John likes ginger snaps.

Who knew? He is not in general in the thrall of cookies, as I am. And whenever he makes his vegan millet chocolate chip masterpieces, I eat 3/4 of them in the first few days, whereas he takes a week to get to the bottom of his pile. (Then we start in on the raw dough, to same effect.) So it’s been a pleasure to see him reach for the ginger snap box again and again.

The other day:

M: Wow, Sweetie. You like ginger snaps.

J: I do.

M: I’ve never seen you eat this many cookies.

J: Yeah?

M: It’s exciting. I feel so met.

J: I think ginger snaps are my favorite cookies.

M: I think so.

J: You love cookies.

M: I am in love with cookies.

J: What’s your favorite cookie?

M: I think . . . vegan millet chocolate chip.

J: Really?

M: Those cookies are supreme.

J: [Face lighting up.] Wow, Sweetie! That’s so exciting!

M: It is?

J: [Celebrating a momentous discovery.] I introduced you to your favorite cookie!

M: You did!

[Pause. Collapse into hysterics.]

J: What?

M: [Howling with laughter.] Sweetie—

J: What?

M: You changed my WHOLE FUCKING LIFE.

On Food and Rats

Thursday, January 7th, 2010

Nope, this is not a post about Ratatouille, though I love that movie—and if anyone can locate a print of a still which shows the rats immediately post-dishwasher cleansing (in which their fur looks all steamy and soft)*, please send me the link.

*I used to have pet rats, and I gave them baths and then toweled them dry, occasionally also using the blow dryer. Good times.

This is a post about two books I read over the holidays, the first about food, the second rats:

1) My Life in France, by Julia Child. It was on John’s mom’s shelf, from which I glean every year. A fun read. We all probably know by now that Julia really knew how to live. And was in general undeterred. And had a great marriage.

And was 6′2″! With a 6′3″ sister! (The single best scene in Julie and Julia is the one in which Jane Lynch, playing Julia’s sister, gets off a train in Paris and greets her sister with a happy series of tall-woman whoops.) That kind of height could not have been easy back then. Where did they ever find shoes? Sweden.

2) Rats, by Robert Sullivan. Basically an ethnography of rats in New York City, with historical and other digressions. It’s fascinating and archly written, and mostly I gobbled it up. But once in a while I got sad about how hated rats are, and how so many are killed by people, or alternately how hard their lives are in the pack.

And I came up against some of my own limits, hearing about how many rats there are in cities, and how they can do serious damage to people, because I don’t want to think of them as anything other than the furry, warm, whip-smart lovebunnies I had for a couple of years. Sigh.

And, hey—rats played a role in my meeting John. Or at least, loving rats played a role. We were in a comedy improv class, playing one of those games where you make a statement about something you like, and whoever else also likes that thing has to get up and switch chairs.

When it was his turn, John said he liked teaching poetry to high school students, and he and I both got up. When it was my turn, I said I liked rats, and he and I both got up again. I think in the Venn diagram of poetry-loving high school teachers and rat-lovers, he and I were the only ones in the center. And now, nine years later, we are deeply in love. And we have pet gerbils.

Let Us Now Praise Perfect Brownies

Tuesday, December 1st, 2009

Yes, observant reader. I have added a new blog category. And that category is food.

For a while now I’ve been wanting to write about Adult Brownies, a.k.a. The Brownies We Served at our Rehearsal Dinner, a.k.a. The Finest Brownies in the History of Brownies, Unqualified, despite being produced by Andronico’s and despite having a very close competitor in the award-winning brownies from Bittersweet Cafe in Oakland.

When I introduced my friend Judy to ABs, she unearthed two gems: 1) the official AB website, a poorly designed and, if I may say, irksome attempt to brand a foodstuff that deserves far better branding (call me!), and 2) a Serious Eats endeavor to recreate ABs, which, judging by the photo, did not succeed. (The crust is too light in color and heft. Plus, I don’t see the appropriate strata: killer crust, fudgy center, somewhat gritty bottom. And are those cake-like crumbs? We have none of that in the AB.)

So here’s the thing about Adult Brownies. They are not fudge. They are brownies, shone through a prism of fudge. The crust is almost crunchable. The flavor is super-dark and rich, very chocolatey, with a big hit of alcohol at the top. The texture is heavy and dense, very fudgy, but without the buttery and too-sweet notes of fudge. You do not want to use the word “moist,” because “moist” implies cake, and this brownie does not truck with cake. It’s more like a brick of dark, alcoholic fudge.

Bittersweet has a very similar brownie, with many of the same qualities, including the crust, texture, and flavor. But Bittersweet’s brownie is far more balanced than the AB. It opens and closes with the same flavors, floating in harmonic suspension. Sounds like a good thing, right? That’s where it gets interesting for me. I find that without the mega-hit of alcohol at the top, the moment of sheer, eye-rolling brownie madness, the bite loses the wow. Bittersweet’s brownie is still great, and I’d never turn one down. But my preference is the AB.

Usually, I wait for my friend Vicky to visit, and we gorge on potato puffs at Gregoire before mainlining AB. But as Vicky has had a stressful semester in library school (sorry, Vick!) and has therefore had to cancel several visits, I am now experiencing an AB deficit. Looks like I’ll have to make the precarious journey, to the store .5 miles from here, by myself.

FU, Herve Mons Laguiole

Tuesday, December 1st, 2009

You’re familiar with FU Penguin? In which blogger Matthew Gasteier tells cute animals what’s what?

I will now do the same with Herve Mons Laguiole, a cheese I encountered in Napa.

The scene: Route 129, heading north through lush, sweet-smelling vineyards, passing under a canopy of changing leaves. We turn off just south of the too-gorgeous-and-tasteful-to-be-twee-but-it-would-be-twee-if-it-were-any-less-gorgeous-and-tasteful main street of St. Helena, into the Dean & Deluca parking lot, where we’ve set our sights on lunch. Or at least snacks. (John’s vegan status will soon stymie this attempt, but stay with me.)

We enter the store. To the right, the cheese counter, chock-a-block with wedges of every imaginable provenance and an employee dressed in a crisp white chef’s coat. To the left: the pastry counter, with tophat cupcakes so huge that their gravitational pull overwhelms us, and we veer immediately pastry-ward, cheese ignored. Before I can properly focus on the confections, I am chanting, “WANT! WANT! WANT” at decibels loud enough to turn heads. People look at us and smile. We are popular.

It takes some time to a) make our pastry selections, and b) determine that there aren’t appropriate lunchables for John. Our hunger stoked and beginning to gnaw, we turn toward the exit. On the way out, I sample a few cheeses that have been micro-cubed and placed into baskets at paw-grabbing height. Then I continue on my way.

But no.

I must stop.

Something is happening in my mouth.

Something totally, radically, life-changingly insane.

Something so salty-creamy-fatty in such perfect proportions, so melty and buttery and rich and cheddary but way, waaaaay beyond the cheddar I have known, with all kinds of killingly consumate bready and earthy and tangy notes, that I stop dead in my tracks.

And cry.

Yes, reader. This cheese made me cry.

It opened up my chest and spread throughout my body like love. Like something so immensely alive, so full of cosmic life-force, that I melted into a conduit for harmony and light.

It was a cheese with great wisdom and depth. A cheese that knew something—knew many, many things—that I didn’t know. Teach me, cheese, I wanted to say. Teach me everything.

So. Fuck you, Herve Mons Laguiole. You will not make me quit my job and move to France just so I can learn how you are made. I refuse to abandon my happy life to personally meet, stroke, and kiss each and every French Simmental or Aubrac cow (above 800m altitude), between May and October, when their milk is collected for laguiole. I cannot be forced to track down the fetchingly attractive Herve Mons (second from left) and smother him with passionate kisses, no matter how fervidly you impel me to do so. And I will most definitely not continue to purchase you, at $34/lb., and consume you with crusty cranberry-and-currant bread, as I did every day of our Thanksgiving vacation.

Take that, Herve Mons Laguiole. You deserve it.